How To Choose The Right Skincare Ingredients For Your Concerns with Dr Emma | Dr Sam Bunting
– Hey, guys. Welcome back. I’m here with Dr. Emma. – Hello. – And today I thought I would go into detail on what we call the Actives Hierarchy. – It’s a key thing. It’s about making the most of your skincare routine and using the products that actually work for the indication that you’re trying to tackle.
– Yeah. when you were standing, I don’t know, in front of the ordinary’s very busy counter, wondering which of the 27 ingredients you need to cherry pick for your particular concerns. We would like the Actives Hierarchy to come to mind to help you make the best choices.
– And the thing is that the Actives Hierarchy will vary according to what you’re trying to treat. So the first thing is to identify what is my major focus of my skincare routine? Is it sorting blemishes, tackling pigmentation, or just fighting the signs of aging.
– Yeah. So let’s kick off with acne, close to our hearts. And I think the easiest thing to do is to give the guys three, our top three in each of these instances. So if we go with acne, – Okay. – what’s numero uno in your eyes? – No one’s going to be surprised with the Retinoids.
– It’s the Retinoid. Okay. So Retinoid is in position number one, because it tackles the coalition which is comedones prevention, unclogging of the skin. And if that happens, then all the other problems that happen downstream with that tends to be much reduced.
So Retinoid is in position number one. Number two? – Close behind, in position number two, we have, I would say Azelaic Acid. – And I would agree with you on that one, I think… Yeah, because I think it has the greatest number of benefits across both the comedones formation side of things, but also in the treatment of the inflammatory lesions and even reducing the redness of the marks the spots would leave behind.
– Agreed. And it combines so nicely with Retinoids. So I think that’s a really good thing. They work really well on different pathways when a blemish is actually produced on your skin. – Yeah. So we would split those out Azelaic Acid in the morning, Retinoid at night.
And if you’ll add one other active ingredient into the mix, which one would you go for? – Our emergency spot reliever, Benzoyl Peroxide. So, yeah, I just dab a little bit of Benzoyl Peroxide on individual spots.
– Targeted treatment with BPA, I think would be very sensible, 2.5 to 3%, that sort of thing. And whilst there are other active ingredients out there that would be helpful, including Niacinamide, Salicylic acid, Bakuchiol.
I think if you were to rationalize having only a certain amount of time and space in your routine, that you wouldn’t go far wrong with those three actives in that order of importance. – Great place to start, and some formulations are all available over the counter, so you can even just start at home.
– So the next category I think of is anti-aging. And again, sunscreen is a given. 90% of why we age is due to UV. So that’s already in there, but in terms of the actives, you can go Retinoids, sorry, gold standard is Tretinoid and Retinoic Acid.
So yeah, the Retinoid family has to rule the day when it comes to anti-aging. If we get only one step. That will be the one I would choose. – Yeah, absolutely. So you might then want to add in a bit of Vitamin C in the morning, that’s got a nice sort of brightening effect to protect your collagen as well.
– Yeah. – So sunscreen, Vitamin C, Retinoid as an anti aging. Sorry, I tap that in the wrong order. But Retinoid top. It’s a pretty good combination. – Yeah, and lets add a little bit extra of Vitamin B3.
I do like my Vitamins A, B and C, I think that makes very really easy sort of aid memoir of the hierarchy for anti-aging. – Okay. So what about if we’re talking about pigmentation? I think in this, if we’re thinking about top three actives, we’re going to take sunscreen out of that step, because that’s an absolute given, but we don’t want to use that one of the active slots for that.
So number one on pigmentation? – I’m still going to say Retinoids as my first choice, because I think that everything else kind of builds upon Retinoids regulating everything from Keratinocytes to Melanocytes to Fibroblasts.
Right. So I think Retinoids are kind of fundamental to pigment correction. – Okay, good. Number two, I would say is some form of pigment suppressor. So either if we were in clinic, we might be using some Hydroquinone.
You could use some Azelaic acid, and then some of the other products. What else might you use in that sort of step? – Kojic Acid is an option, but I personally always prefer the two that you’ve mentioned, Azelaic Acid is more versatile and better tolerated, and Hydroquinone just gives better results.
– Yeah, absolutely. So Kojic acid, Tranexamic acid, a few topical products with that in it, but it’s something which actually is just suppressing pigmentation. – Yeah, okay. And in position number three, I think you’ve got to go Vitamin C.
– Yeah. – So Vitamin C to try and help really work in synergy with your sunscreen to help reduce pigmentation. – Yeah, and there’s different forms now. So you’ve got L-Ascorbic Acid, which is probably the most investigated, but has some of the caveats or being relatively hard to get into the skin.
So, it has to be formulated at a low pH around 3 1/2, which means some people can find it irritating. And it is quite unstable. Alternatives include Ascorbyl Glucoside and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, which are a bit more stable and are easier to package alongside other active ingredients.
So they can be an easier way to combine your Vitamin C with the pigment suppressor. So the one thing we haven’t talked about this redness. – This is where we shake it up a little bit. – I think if we talk about redness in context of someone who might be developing recenzia, along the recenzia spectrum.
You’ve got to say Azelaic Acid in position number one, right? – Absolutely. Absolutely, we knocked the Retinoid off the top spot, and Azelaic has come up there. I agree, Azelaic acid, it’s a great sort of all around anti-inflammatory, anti-redness.
I’d then probably say a bit of Niacinamide. – Yep. – Bit of barrier repair, – Yeah – but it’s something that’s so much part of the story in redness-prone skin. – Yeah. And it’s a good antiinflammatory as well.
I think position number three is an interesting one, but I think it has to be a Retinoid, if we can get away with it, what do you think? – Yeah, often redness-prone skin comes with a little bit of aging.
– Yeah. – You want to firm up your dermis a little bit. If you can, absolutely. – See, I think if you’ve got Azelaic Acid going on, Niacinamide, gentle Retinoid, actually not used quite good in the situation – Yeah – ’cause it got all those things in there.
You’ve got a good foundation for managing redness-prone skin. – I’m going to think that’s pretty good. We’ve just wrapped up acne, pigmentation, antiaging, and redness-prone skin. – Yeah. – So the next time you’re at the ordinary counter, just remember the actives hierarchy.
– Yeah. Hope that was helpful, guys. See you again soon. Bye for now. – Bye.