Anti-Aging Ingredient Series | Facial Oils | Do They Work?
[Music] hey everybody its Angie and welcome to huntin flashy today’s video is going to be the seventh video in my anti-aging skincare ingredients series in which I take a look at ingredients that have anti-aging claims to see if they really work and if they’re worth it to spend our time and our money on and to incorporate into our skincare routine so today’s video is going to be all about the anti-aging oils and as we know oils are having a moment because not only are they one of the more natural anti-aging ingredients that you can get for your skincare routine they’re also considered clean and that’s having a moment now as well people are always looking for things that are a little bit closer to nature and so oils that are derived from plants or other natural resources certainly fit that bill as with most anti-aging ingredients the claims can be a little exaggerated and so I’ve looked into the research to figure out if the claims are true and if they’re worthwhile to use in our skincare now being a person who has a combination skin type I have an oily t-zone and I have been acne prone in the past I have never been a huge fan of using separate oils in my skincare but I know a lot of people who use oils who have drier skin and they swear by them and I have used them in the past when my skin was a little dry like in the dead of winter to add a little more hydration to my skin so I think that they can work from the hydrating standpoint but lately I have seen so many headlines and so many videos about the must-have oils what they can do for different skin types and for anti-aging that I was hoping that by digging into the research I would become a convert and be a lover of anti-aging oil so I’m always hopeful when I enter these things I did a really deep dive on this one I did so much research that I ended up writing a 15 page script for this video I hope to not bore you I always like to preface this by saying that I’m not a doctor I’m not a chemist I am NOT an expert in any of this stuff but I do like to do some research and when I get into it boy do I get into it I also have a few people in my life that helped me a little bit who can access the full-text of the papers my daughter who’s in pre-med in college and is doing a lot of chemistry she wants to be a dermatologist and a lot of skin stuff and my father who is a chemist and has had a long career in personal care I just want you to know that I’m coming at this from as sciency a standpoint as I possibly can I might not be right about everything this is in the end an opinion based piece so take it for you know what it is so there are three kinds of oils used in skincare they are fixed plant oils essential or volatile plant oils and also mineral oils so the top one the fixed plant oils those are oils like olive sunflower safflower coconut sesame almond avocado jojoba Argan rosehip seed cut k shea butter hemp and they’re mainly used as moisturizers in skincare then there are the essential and citrus and volatile oils and some of those are bergamot orange peel lavender rosemary and rose petal oils those are mainly used for fragrance and field properties in skincare and cosmetics but some of them can be irritating personally I can’t use like lavender oil or rosemary oils for these citrus oils there’s a lot of information out there about how those can create a photo toxic reaction when exposed to sunlight but a lot of those oils are steam distilled and that removes the burr captain in them which is what causes the photo toxic reaction so some of that is overblown but I’m not really going to be talking about the volatile oils here today and then the third type is the mineral oils which are derived from petroleum those are petrolatum and mineral oil of course cosmetic grade oil has been refined so that there aren’t any harmful compounds in it they are perfectly safe to use they’ve been used for hundreds and hundreds of years and they have a really good safety profile files can be found in just about everything concerning skin care there in creams there are lotions there in serums there in make up there in cleansers they’re also sold separately as just straight oils so today’s video is mainly going to be on the fixed plant oils and the general thinking and what you most articles about them is that they are full of fatty acids that closely resemble the fatty acids in our own skin and so our skin recognizes them and knows what to do with them and puts them right to work and that they’re easily absorbed you’ll also read that they are rich sources of vitamins like vitamin A vitamin C vitamin E vitamin D and that they also contain other antioxidants and carotenoids and therefore are anti-aging so I wanted to dissect those different claims to make it easier on us so let’s start with the first one and that is our plant oils moisturizing and the answer is yes because some plant oils are occlusive and so they help to moisturize the skin by trapping water onto the skin and eliminating some of the trans epidermal water loss or tool that can occur the more occlusive plant oils are sweet almond oil avocado olive sesame and squalling now there was one small study that compared tool using no oil compared to mineral oil and sesame oil and with no oil pine to the skin just you know regular evaporation skin lost about 400 micrograms of water per hour and applying mineral oil which is an occlusive oil skin loss only about eighty to a hundred micrograms of water per hour so that was a 75% reduction in water evaporating from the skin then with sesame oil skin lost about 250 to 300 micrograms of water per hour so while it did hold about 25% more water onto the skin than without oil it wasn’t as big of a result as you got with a mineral oil mineral oil is probably more effective but if you don’t want to use mineral oil then definitely yes the occlusive oils can help to hold more water onto the surface of the skin then some of the other oils are just emollient they’re not as occlusive and what they do is they just soften the edges of the dry skin and make it look nicer and lay down flatter alright question to do plant oils contain lip like triglycerides and free fatty acids and so our skin recognizes them and knows what to do with them and puts them right to work and that they’re easily absorbed all right so the answer is technically yes but it’s a little more complicated than that there are triglycerides lipids and free fatty acids in oils and in our skin but if we break down what is in what that’s where it gets a little murky so the stratum corneum which is the outermost layer of our skin it’s composed of about 33% free fatty acids the most important lipids for skin health are omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids these are called essential fatty acids because our body doesn’t produce them on our own we have to get them from other sources there are only two essential fatty acids they’re both polyunsaturated acids one is alpha linolenic acid that’s the omega-3 and one is linoleic acid that is the omega-6 so in plant oils 98% of just about every oil is going to be triglycerides and there is a very small amount of free fatty acids usually under 2 or 3% oils are mainly made up of triglycerides rather than free fatty acids and triglycerides are esters formed from glycerol plus 3 3 plus this is a tongue-twister plus 3 free fatty acids when they’re contained in a triglyceride our skin doesn’t recognize them as free fatty acids technically there aren’t a lot of actual free fatty acids floating around in the oil that your skin is going to recognize and absorb and put to work now when I was doing the research for this I kept seeing all these charts that were saying all these oils were like 75% linoleic acid and 25% oleic acid and 10% palmitic acid I was like wait a minute if it’s only 2 to 3% how is it 75% and what I found out is that in order to get those charts what the companies do is they separate the free fatty acids out from the triglycerides this is done through a process involving adding other chemicals heating it up shaking it around cooling it down adding gas on and on and on it’s like a 20 step process they finally figure out what the free fatty acid are that are bound up in the triglycerides but the point is when you put it on your skin it doesn’t let go boy all the triglycerides immediately turn into free fatty acids there are a tiny trace of free fatty acids in there but it’s not to the degree that you are led to believe that they are so I did find some actual Studies on putting oils on the skin to see how far they penetrate and as it turns out they don’t really penetrate that deeply into the skin most of the oils that they studied stayed in the top 0 to 20 percent of the stratum corneum so that’s like saying in the topmost layer of the topmost layer our skin also produces sebum that’s our natural oils those contain about 45% triglycerides some of which are converted to free fatty acids by bacteria in our pores I know how much more complicated can it get resulting in about 10 percent free fatty acids in sebum that is coating the surface of your skin in a study on human skin the triglycerides in almond jojoba and avocado oils stayed at the surface of the stratum corneum where they had a hydrating effect due to their occlusive qualities a couple of studies found that oils higher in oleic acid tend to penetrate a little bit deeper into the skin and are disruptive to the skin barrier they also can bring other elements in the oil deeper into the skin and that oils that are higher in linoleic acid tend to stay at the surface of the skin and be more hydrating all right as if that part wasn’t complicated enough let’s get into the third part which is do plant oils contain vitamins and antioxidants like vitamin A in different forms vitamin C and vitamin E that are some of the most potent – anti-aging ingredients that we use and so therefore plant oils are anti-aging well the answer on this one is also technically true rosehip seed oil from certain rose plants does contain tretinoin carotenoids and phenolic compounds grape seed oil does contain resveratrol vitamin E and phenols phenols phenols argan oil does contain polyphenols vitamin E and squalene avocado oil does contain carotene minerals vitamins A D and E and queque oil does contain retinol vitamin E and vitamin F so what can be wrong with that well the big question is how much is actually in there and is it enough to do anything in your skin it was really hard to track down this information because usually what they’ll say is oil X has twice as much vitamin A as oil Y or oil Z has four times as much antioxidants as oil q and that all sounds super fantastic alright so let’s take a look at a specific example I’m gonna compare queque oil to rosehip oil because those are the ones that both claim to have some form of vitamin A now it took a bit of digging to find actual numbers and actual types of vitamin A that are in each but I did manage to find that could K oil contains retinol palmitate and that some species of rosehip seed oil do contain trans retinoic acid which is retin-a the prescription stuff so right off the top comparing them apples to apples the retinoids in them are not the same the queque oil contains a ester of vitamin A that has to do a three-step conversion in your skin before it becomes retinoic acid which is what the rosehip seed oil already has in it so I know already you’re getting excited you’re like what rosehip seed oil has retin-a in it yeah it actually does but wait not so fast let’s take a look at the numbers okay K oil contains one point one for two international units per 100 milliliters of retinol palmitate rosehip seed oil contains 0.
357 milliliters per liter so when you do the math to convert IU’s intagram x’ and then grams into liters and then milliliters into leaders what they both calculate out to is the amount of retinol palmitate in queque oil is approximately zero point zero zero zero zero zero three percent and the amount of tretinoin in rosehip seed oil is zero point zero zero zero three five seven percent so as you can see very very tiny amounts otherwise known as virtually none so while there’s definitely a better dose of a better type of vitamin A in rosehip seed oil versus cacao oil both of them don’t have enough to actually do anything in your skin because the real research of which there is a ton on tretinoin shows that in concentrations below 0.
01 percent it doesn’t do anything to your skin and these both are way below that so unfortunately those are just really great marketing claims and I have to apologize to the nice queque oilman who emailed me asked me if I wanted to do a sponsored video for them they offered me six thousand dollars which I turned down graciously but I did say that I would try his product so I do have that as a PR sample and I did try it and as far as oil goes it’s a fine oil so sorry mr.
KK man and also rosehip seed oil which is the one that I was personally the most excited about because when I saw that it contained tretinoin I was like yeehaw there is something to this and then my bubble was completely burst alright so let’s move on to vitamin C maybe they have enough vitamin C to make it worth your while right as we know that vitamin C in skincare the most effective version is l-ascorbic acid and the effective range is between 10 and 20 percent so rosehip seed oil actually doesn’t contain any ascorbic acid even though we’re constantly told that it is a good source of vitamin C that’s because the rosehip seeds are actually a good source of vitamin C but once it’s pressed to release the oil there is no ascorbic acid in the oil let’s take a look at the vitamin E in argan oil it contains between 600 and 900 milligrams per kilogram of total tocopheryl which equals zero point zero zero zero percent let’s look at the resveratrol and grapeseed oil the trans-resveratrol 0.
3 milligrams per kilograms have been detected that comes out to zero point zero zero zero zero three percent total phenolic compounds including flavonoids carotenoids and phenolic acids in grapeseed oil zero point zero zero zero to nine percent what all this means what all boils down to is that plant oils are good at mooster izing by being occlusive but they are not adding any special anti-aging skincare ingredients to your skin I mean moisturizing isn’t nothing moisturizing is really good for your skin and so if you can use a plant oil on your face and it will add that extra level of occlusive mists or it will help your skin to look smoother then I’m all for that I’m just not all for all the hype and all the less than truthful marketing around it so if you are looking for an oil to use in your skincare I always have product recommendations for you I personally am NOT going to add in a separate like cold-pressed rosehip seed oil to my skincare routine because you know as I said earlier oily skin don’t really like the oils and I have a hard time using them I find that if I put them on after my other treatment things then the treatment things tend to wall and pill up and I’m like oh did that just ruin my day so in my skincare routine I do have a few oils I do use a few oils there is almond oil in my cure ology you guys know that I love the cure ology this is prescription tretinoin so if you’re looking to improve your fine lines and wrinkles using a vitamin A I recommend a prescription retinoid I think that they are the hardest working the number one anti-aging thing that we can use our retin-a can cause your skin to be a little bit drier and so the almond oil does help my skin to be less dry using the retin-a if you want to try the cure ology it’s like a mail service where they mail it to you once a month the first month is free and I have a link in the information box below the video where you can try ecology but you know comparing something like cure ology which has prescription tretinoin in it in a in an actual high enough dose that it’s going to make a difference in my skin and has made a difference in my skin compared to something like this certified organic rose hip oil while this might be a nice moisturizer to add at the end I wouldn’t buy it in hopes that it had enough tretinoin to really help with my big wrinkles you know I do use an oil cleanse for my first cleanse and I find that that really breaks up the makeup and especially my sunscreen which can be very tenacious the products that I use that our oil-based cleansers are the Clinique take the day off cleansing balm this one has safflower oil in it and I also really like the DHC deep cleansing oil this is an olive oil based cleanser so if you’re looking for an oil for using on your skin for moisturization for me there’s not a huge difference between them it’s really more a look and feel kind of thing I think they all deliver the same stuff meaning they don’t really deliver on the vitamin E the vitamin C the vitamin A all that other great stuff that they claim it’s really more about how well they’re gonna hold the moisture onto your skin so from that standpoint the heavier the grease your oils are going to hold in the moisture better they’re going to be more occlusive the more occlusive plant oils are sweet almond oil avocado olive sesame and squalling your skin does produce less sebum as you get older so if you’re an older person who used to have oily skin and now it’s becoming more and more dry then probably the oil I would recommend would be the squalene oil because it most closely matches what was in our sebum and as that slows down this can help to replenish some of that so this is a nice one this is from timeless they sent me this in PR it’s really lightweight and you know it’s clear and it doesn’t smell like anything and it absorbs right in it does leave a little bit of like a little bit of an oily occlusive barrier but it’s not nearly as oily as some of the other oils that really are quite oily so that’s a nice one I think my discount code will work on the oils it’s hf5 off you get $5 off your order there’s a product that I just got in PR that it was really pretty psyched about especially after doing all the research from this and it’s an oil based lotion from Paula’s choice of brand new product just got it Anna – two nights so far and what I like about this is that it’s oil-based and it’s got a mixture of a lot of different oils in it plus squalane it also has the three ceramides that I always look for in something but what she threw in there that we just learned about in this video is the actual free fatty acids linoleic and linolenic acid and oleic acid they’re already in there ready for your skin to you so you can just put them on and they are usable so that’s great so I think this was a really interesting product with a really great ingredient list I think that it is really great for moisturizing and hydrating dehydrated skin these are cold-pressed pure oils they’re relatively inexpensive this one is a hobo oil from or acacia I think this was like twelve or sixteen dollars at the grocery store it’s cold-pressed it’s all organic it’s four ounces it’s really big if you were using a skin care oil and loving it then that’s great I certainly don’t want to rain on anyone’s parade anyway that is it for today’s video I think I probably went on for about five hours so if you enjoy our nerdy adventure into chemistry land to find out the deep dark truth behind plant oils and what they really can or can’t do for your skin then go ahead and give the video a thumbs up don’t forget to subscribe to my channel hit the notification bell as always I thank you so much for your time I really do appreciate your watching especially a long one like this and I will see you in the next video take care everybody [Music]